Where to look, when to go and why the canoe beats the jeep more often than you would think.
Chitwan holds over 700 greater one-horned rhino. In the cool hours they graze the elephant grass near river channels, which is exactly where a slow canoe puts you.
Book the first safari slot of the morning. Wildlife activity collapses after nine, and so does the light.
Wear neutral colours, keep conversation low, and trust your naturalist over your own eyes — they see movement you will not.
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About the author
Rajesh Chaudhary
Senior Naturalist at Nepal Heaven. Based in Kathmandu, on the trail roughly half the year.


